Everything that we want you to know when you get a Kitten

We are here to help you learn everything you need about your new addition. Below is a basic overview of kitten care, from vaccines to socialization to spay and neuter. If you have any questions, please get in touch with us.

→ Learn more about our Kitten Care Services HERE

Bringing Home Your Kitten

When a kitten is first brought home, transportation should be done in a cat carrier for safety and comfort. Once at home, the kitten should be provided a quiet, secure area as a home base. This area should include an appropriately sized litter box, food bowl, and water as well as a comfortable resting place. Care should be taken that any potentially harmful items are removed and that there are no small areas where the kitten could become trapped. When supervised, the kitten can be allowed to explore the new environment. Supervision helps prevent inadvertent destruction or scratching of household possessions. When the owners are away, the kitten can remain in its home area for safety. Appropriate toys should be provided, and playtime should be encouraged daily.

A note on carriers - we prefer carriers which can be easily disassembled, leaving the cat in the base. This allows them to feel safer during their visit.

Vaccines

• 6 weeks - 8 weeks 6 days: DRCP* Vaccine
• 9 weeks - 11 weeks 6 days:: DRCP and FeLV#1*
• 12 weeks - 14 weeks 6 days: DRCP and Rabies and FeLV #2*
• 15 weeks on: Final DRCP booster (*and the final FeLV booster if we did the initial vaccine at the previous visit.)
  *DRCP is also referred to as FVRCP

The DRCP vaccine covers the feline distemper virus (also known as panleukopenia), rhinotracheitis, and calicivirus. These viruses can cause severe and debilitating disease, so they are considered core for all cats, indoor and outdoor. We give a series of shots 3-4 weeks apart until they are 15 weeks or older in order to train the immune system to recognize and fight off these diseases.

Rabies is required by law because it is a 100% fatal disease. Your cat will be eligible for a 3 year rabies vaccine after their one year visit. FeLV covers the feline leukemia virus. Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) is a disease that impairs the cat's immune system and can cause cancer. This viral infection is responsible for many deaths in household cats, affecting all breeds. The good news is that it is completely preventable. Most cats with FeLV live only a few years after their diagnosis.

→ Learn more about Cat Vaccinations HERE

Heartworm Disease and Prevention

Did you know that cats can get heartworm disease? Unlike dogs, it is very hard to detect and even harder to treat. However, there are very effective products on the market such as Bravecto Plus to prevent heartworms in cats. This is true even for indoor cats; in one study 25% of heartworm affected cats were described as indoors only.

Unlike in dogs, cats tend to have lung disease due to the inflammatory effects of the heartworms. Often, this looks like feline asthma. Once disease develops it can only be controlled, not cured. The immiticide injection used to kill adult heartworms in dogs is toxic to cats.

→ Learn more about Cat Parasites & Prevention HERE

Flea and Tick Prevention

Fleas are the most common external parasite of companion animals. In addition to causing itching and other skin problems, fleas can transmit diseases to animals and people. The majority of the flea population (i.e. eggs, larvae, and pupae) are found off the pet and around the environment. We recommend Bravecto Plus, a topical flea and tick preventative that is applied every 2 months. Permethrin containing products (often found over the counter) are extremely toxic to cats and should not be used.

Fecals and Deworming

We test for intestinal parasites at each kitten visit until we have two negative internal parasite exams, and we will retest at each yearly visit. Please bring a fresh fecal sample if at all possible, as it is difficult to obtain on cats unless volunteered. If we find intestinal parasites, we will usually deworm again 3 weeks later. This is because intestinal parasites will hide out in the intestinal walls where the deworming medication can’t reach.

Bravecto Plus and Revolution Plus have a deworming agent which will get roundworms, whipworms, and hookworms. Neither medication will cover some of the more unusual intestinal parasites, such as tapeworms, coccidia, or giardia; all of which need special medications.

→ Learn more about Cat Parasites & Prevention HERE

Litter Box Training and Issues

You will be amazed at how quickly a kitten takes to using a litter box. It will make more difference in how well your kitten adapts to your household than anything else you provide. Note that these are two items, not one: a box and litter, both of which come in numerous types. For one feline, have two boxes in different locations. Some like the boxes to be on different floors, or at opposite ends of the house. Most dislike having them adjacent to the washing machine and dryer, and they really don't want it near their food bowls. Each box should be scooped clean once or twice every single day, and the litter in it should be replaced every one to two weeks. When you are replacing the litter, wash the empty box with a fragrance-free detergent and make sure it's dry before new litter is put in it.

Dirty boxes contribute to behavioral problems in which cats decide to pee and poop outside the box. Sometimes they get in the habit of going outside the box in a way that is appropriately called inappropriate elimination. You want, with all your heart, to prevent your kitten from becoming one of those cats. Inappropriate elimination is one of the main reasons cats are surrendered to the shelter because it is difficult to live with the odor and cleanup of cat urine – which is nasty – and cat poop on your floors and carpeting. The best approach is to prevent it from happening.

Your first decision about litter is clumping or non-clumping. Clumping litter means the urine ends up formed into a sort of ball that is easily scoopable. Non-clumping litter tends to be clay, which some people prefer because of the way it absorbs odors. There is scented (to cover up the smell for your nose), unscented (because some cats don't like the fragrance), lightweight (more uses per bag), dust free (if either you or the feline have respiratory issues), natural (biodegradable and renewable sources such as corn, wood, pine, wheat, cedar, recycled paper products, etc.) and flushable (check your local ordinances first, as some cities do not allow flushing of pet feces).

Most cats have litter preferences, although some will use any material no matter the texture or what it smells like. The best way to find out what your cat likes is to offer choices of litter and see which one is used. Try a few different types to make this experiment as accurate as possible and give each option enough time for the kitten to decide.

Dental Care

Dental care is important to start young! We will check your kittens teeth each time we see them for any abnormal growth, redness, or tartar. It is important to have your cat’s teeth checked each year at their yearly check-up, and to pay attention when they yawn or when eating crunchy food (are they only chewing on one side?) as feline dental disease is subtle.

Cats are predisposed to getting different dental disease than dogs. Specifically, they can develop feline oral resorptive lesion (FORL) which is a painful condition and for which we recommend removal of the affected teeth. They also can have excessive inflammation associated with the teeth and tartar, a conditional called stomatitis.

Handling/Gentling to Desensitize

It is important to introduce your kitten to lots of new and different sensations so that they become used to it. Try to play with their feet, trim their nails, and handle them so they become accustomed to it. If you have dogs or other cats, gradually introduce them (through a screen or fence) until they get used to each other.

Remember that what is cute from a kitten is not likely to be cute with an adult cat. However, it's easy to train kittens, and training can be the same type of bonding experience it is with dogs. You can train a kitten to use the litter box, to come, to kill the toy, to jump on command, and so on. Use treats to teach them to come by shaking a can of something tasty, so when you need to find the little Houdini they come to you.

Unfortunately, you can also train the kitten to play-bite with your hand or jump on your moving feet under the covers. It may be adorable when they are 3 months old, but it's guaranteed not to be so cute in short order. Whatever you want to prevent in your adult cat should not be taught to your kitten or you may be experiencing it daily for well over 15 years.

Insurance

Pet insurance is a good idea to start early (alternatively you can start a pet savings account for any emergencies that may crop up.) Most insurances won’t cover pre-existing conditions or any medical conditions that a kitten was born with. Almost all of them work by having you pay out-of-pocket and submit a claim for reimbursement.

Insurance is best for emergency situations, like when your kitty eats a string or is blocked at 3AM and requires a visit to the ER clinic. Sometimes they will also cover yearly well visits (to some extent.) It is best to do your research and commit to an insurance company early.

In the event of an emergency there is also a deferred interest credit-card called Care Credit. This credit card is deferred interest so you must pay it off in the time allotted or you will get hit with a high interest rate. However, for large expenses it is an excellent option.

Environmental Enrichment

Environmental enrichment is necessary, especially for indoor cats. Think of it as a boredom buster. Environmental enrichment during kittenhood prevents behavior problems during adulthood. You cannot overdo it. Kittens that are only 3 weeks old like to play with crinkle balls or bells that make noises (although hopefully, you are not starting out with a 3-week-old kitten). Maybe they didn't have those toys where they were born, so start building their enrichment with those items. By 5 weeks of age, they can use scratching boards, run through tunnels, jump into cardboard boxes, squeak dog toys, and so on. It can be as simple as shredded paper or crunchy packing paper that you toss on the floor. As long as you don't frighten the kittens, it's okay.

The love of cardboard boxes is a life-long passion with cats: “If I fit, I sit.” Kittens like to climb, so carpeted cat trees are fantastic toys, especially when adjacent to a window to the street; a kitten rearranging your desktop is less so.

Diet

You can unintentionally train your kitten to not eat anything other than the one food they grew up with, which is usually kibble. Adult cats really aren't that picky, it's just that kittens imprint on what you give them so they seem finicky. They need to be introduced to different foods when they are kittens (dry, canned, pate, shredded, chicken, fish, etc.) Kittens do need to be on a growth diet for at least a year. We recommend Hill’s Healthy Advantage kitten.

More information is coming out now about hydration in cats. A wet-food only diet helps with hydration and weight control, and may help with the urinary issues that are so common.

Spay and Neuter

We recommend that all healthy kittens undergo a castration surgery. Cats can have multiple litters a year and go in and out of heat every 9 days and have up to 5 litters a year! That’s a lot of kittens!

For girls, this is a spay, medically known as an ovariohysterectomy (removal of the ovaries and uterus.) Spaying prevents unwanted litters, mammary cancer, and an emergency condition called a pyometra. For boys, neutering removes the testicles. This prevents some behaviors (i.e. marking in the house etc.) and will help prevent the overpopulation of unwanted cats in this area. We will usually spay around 6 months of age or when they are over 5 lbs.

→ Learn more about Cat Spaying & Neutering HERE

Grooming

Most cats don’t need to be groomed at a groomer. However, both long-haired and short-haired cats need to be brushed to maintain a healthy coat. Long-haired cats can get mats if they are not brushed, and they can eventually require a shave down (cats don’t tolerate this well.)

Hairballs are not a “normal” part of cat life. Often, hairballs can indicate an underlying issue such as Inflammatory Bowel Syndrome. If your cat is vomiting frequently, please see a vet.

Kitten Proofing

Kittens have no sense of mortality or danger whatsoever and must be protected from themselves. At around 8-10 weeks some can be fearful and they tend not to get into too much trouble, but around 10 weeks, kittens start to practice the art of pure love. They get cuddles, they get kisses, they get bold and courageous so they jump off things, dash underfoot, chew cords, jump on the hot stove, and play attack the dog. This period will last for a few months.

When your kitty is still tiny, double check the washer, dryer and dishwasher before you start them because kitties will nap inside. If you have any furniture that reclines, check before you put the footrest down because kitties will find a way to nap in there. Keep certain “toys” – as they will be viewed by the kitten – out of reach, such as string, yarn, milk-jug bands, hair bands, and the like as they may otherwise have to be removed surgically.

Start out by giving your kitten a small space, perhaps a bathroom or laundry room, shut off by doors or gates (remember to first check if the kitten is small enough to get through the gate slats, because they occasionally seem to go boneless). They should feel safe and comfortable in the small space before they get more space. As they grow, gradually expand their space and gain familiarity with the house. That way they don't lose track of where the litter box is. Houses can be very, very big to small kittens. They are also adept at finding the tiniest, most tucked away sleeping spots (think of the recliner) so a smaller search area will likely save you some moments of panic searching.

Book an Appointment for your New Kitten

If you would like to book an appointment for your new kitten, give us a call at (256) 216-4780 or request an appointment using the button below!

Prior to your appointment, please complete the New Patient Information Form and email any relevant pet records to [email protected].